SEAmester Student Diaries
"diaries sent from sea"

March 20, 2007

Ulrich W. Heward
University of Maine in Orono

In the last log our shipmate David reported that we were making way toward Antigua, and that we were unsure of what experiences lay ahead. Even our wildest speculations were not nearly as powerful as what we have been through; full sail harbor entrances, bustling markets, boiling lakes, and fierce squalls have added multiple notches to our salted belts. Our entrance to English Harbor in Antigua was under full sail, as per SEAmester tradition. Watched by the entire harbor (certainly with envy!) we elegantly maneuvered through the winding passage, saluted with our cannon, and finished with a perfect docking in English Harbor. This was a strong start to a burly few days. Antiguan history, sociological reflections, examination of mangrove swamps, and examining the geology of the "Pillars of Hercules" further opened our inquisitive minds toward the often overlooked academics of the Caribbean.

I am inclined to expound upon our experience at the Pillars of Hercules; their effect upon us matches the nature of their namesake. A quick small-boat ride from the Spirit to a nearby shore brought us in view of massive, spectacular rock columns. A lengthy geology field study educated us on their intriguing nature and origin. Following this site, we hiked (at some points climbed) up to the great hill of Shirley Heights and relaxed to the spectacular view at the peak. Our adventures were not limited to the countryside. Our urban appetites were fulfilled at St. Johns' Market. This was a bustling trade center where one could find anything ranging from fish, to exotic fruits, to local crafts.

The sail to Dominica was a shift from working our legs to working our upper-bodies, with the engagement of our minds just as forceful. Yet this sail differed from previous ones, in that we began to understand, to feel, to know the vessel better than we could have believed during our first few clumsy days. Our sea-legs were set, our rough hands well accustomed to the lines and helm, and our minds attuned to both nautical commands and maritime academic lectures.

Our arrival into Dominica was certainly well deserved; however, the physical and mental stress of the previous sail was insignificant compared to the great feat we accomplished in that land. The hike up into a rainforest and through the Valley of Desolation to the Boiling Lake was one of the greatest challenges we had ever faced, three hours each way, through sliding mud, pouring rain, near vertical climbs, and fumaroles, volcanic steam vents spewing boiling water, steam and mud around us. Our knowledgeable and intuitive local guide, Seacat, led us with conviction and safety. Our arrival at the Boiling Lake was breathtaking, as we stood on a great cliff overlooking the sulfurous and steaming body of water, and dined on delicious local salt fish cuisine. Our return was grueling, battling the same elements we encountered on our first leg. However, we were rewarded heavily with hot spring baths, and a final dip in cool, crisp water through a cavernous gorge to a waterfall. We finished off our time in Dominica enjoying ourselves in yet another bustling market, engaging in the famous "Market Sweep", wherein each watch group competed to find and document the most types of exotic fruits possible, many of which we pleasantly feasted upon.

Our departure from Dominica was a pleasant farewell, and was the beginning of our most rigorous sailing passage yet. Several days of rough seas, wind, and rain surrounding our weathered vessel further hardened our bodies and minds into those of sailors. We all worked with high energy, competency, and fortitude. As this narrative is being produced, we rest at anchor in beautiful Trinidad, and have just completed our first knot tying competition. This evening we shall enjoy dinner, attend a physically restful but intellectually stimulating class about the locally popular sport of cricket, and then drift off into a gently rocking sleep, guarded by the Southern Cross constellation, interrupted only by our meditative but ever vigilant night watches.