When I told people where I was going for my summer vacation the typical response was, "Cape, what?" This summer my mother, I and 163 other Americans (most of Cape Verdean descent) went on the journey of a lifetime. We traveled to Praia, the capital of Cape Verde, on the island of Santiago. As members of the 1995 Congress of Caboverdianos, the reason for our visit was reunion and our theme, "Um Povo-One People, The Return."
Cape Verde, consisting of ten islands, is 445km. off the coast of west Africa. Most Americans probably best know it as the place where tropical storms form before heading west possibly to become hurricanes that threaten the United States. The islands have the potential to harvest 45,000 tons of tuna and other seafood per year. Due to lack of funds for modern fishing vessels, the potential remains largely unrealized. Since we arrived during their summer, August through October, the average daily temperature was about 95 degrees with 100% humidity, so we carried water with us wherever we went. The first island that we reached, Sal, "salt," is best known for the Amilicar Cabral International Airport and salt mines. Amilicar Cabral was the leader of Cape Verde's struggle for independence from Portugal. Cape Verde won independence in 1975, two years after Cabral's assassination. We had the distinct honor of meeting his widow. Sal also boasts a beautiful resort, the Morabeza.
The Congress held August 17-19, covered topics in culture, sports, education, health, economic development, tourism, the political process in a democracy, law enforcement and justice. We learned how each of these areas operate in Cape Verde in comparison to how they operate in the United States. Each evening we were treated to receptions hosted by the U. S. Ambassador, the Mayor of Praia and the President of the Republic of Cape Verde, His Excellency, Antonio Mascarenhas Monteiro.
Although only six and a half hours away, the way of life is light years from what we know here at home. Drought continues to be a problem at times but not as severely as in the past. Most homes still do not have running water, bathrooms, electricity or telephones. Drinking water is imported in bottles.
While on Fogo we visited the villages of Atalia, Mosteiros, Ribeira Ilheu and Sao Felipe, the capital of Fogo. They greeted us with a warm smile, handshake or kiss in each place that we stopped. Our guides, Filomena and Arturo, would often call out to the villagers, "This is your family from America, come and welcome them home." People would come to greet us from their homes or in the fields. Many people on Fogo have a farm or vineyards, which cover the mountain sides and valleys with a vibrant green, reminiscent of Hawaii but even more spectacular.
They treated us to dinner with, the Mayor of Sao Filipe and lunch with the Mayor of Mosteiros, another large town. After dinner the mayor treated part of the group to a tour of the island's power station. We learned that power on the entire island is shutdown between the hours of six and eight a.m. daily so that they can recharge everything.
Most of the people in Cape Verde would be considered very poor by American standards but they have a wealth of joy, pride and love of their country that many Americans would, and should, admire. They are always eager to share what little they have, always placing your comforts above their own.
Many ask what it was like finally to be there and mere words cannot describe it. Perhaps my mother could best sum the emotions and memories of this trip up in the tears of joy shed as she sobbed uncontrollably and cried, "We are here, Leah, we are really here," as we emerged from our small plane on the beach, which serves as in interim airport.
As we prepared to make our journey home, our farewell to the people of Fogo was always the same, "So long for now but we will be back." Dr. Eugenio Miranda Da Veiga, the mayor of Sao Filipe, best captured the feeling we had when we left to go home, when he said, "I hope that you will leave a little of your heart here in Fogo and take a little of our hearts back to America with you."
Fogo not only got a piece my heart on this voyage but a giant part of my future. My mother and I have already begun to realize our personal pledge to help our family in Cape Verde by starting a clothing and school supply drive among our family here in Connecticut.
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